Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Billings Blah

Everyday, we head out to see the beautiful landscapes and learn some history about the West.  Today was Little Bighorn Battlefield and from the minute I got out of the car next to the National Cemetery there was this sad feeling (I don't handle death well and am often overwhelmed in cemeteries) but this felt exaggerated.  Walking up to the monument and seeing the stones where the men fell was eye-opening and heart-breaking.   Reading all the accounts of what happened seems like such a tragedy on both sides.  I noticed walking around it was different than all the other historic or tourist sites we have seen this trip since no one really spoke above a whisper and there was an overall heavy feeling.  It was still beautiful and you can see why everyone wanted to be there but it was a very solemn experience.
 Just a portion of the National Cemetery.

These are stones marking where the soldiers fell.  Custer is in the middle of the field and shows he fought and stayed with his troops.

This is the monument for the soldiers.

This is the Indian memorial.
 
On our way to Billings we saw a sign for a National Monument and decided to check it out. Pompeys Pillar looks like a large flat top rock formation from a distance.  When you get closer it is 150 feet tall and is close to the Yellowstone river.  The interesting part is William Clark named it after Sacagawea's son, who he called Pomp.  William Clark climbed the rock and wrote of it in his journal, even signing and dating the rock.  They have added stairs and the climb to the top was kinda tough but worth it since the view was impressive.   It's a really neat little piece of history and a nicely done visitor area.
W Clark July 25, 1806


View from the top.

I conquered all 215 stairs on this 90 degree Montana day.

Now we are back in Billings with nothing to do.  It is super boring here and instead of wasting tomorrow learning how nothing happens here we are leaving a day early and going to Bozeman.  At least that gets us closer to Yellowstone.

Monday, September 22, 2014

I Own North Dakota

It was about time Ryan had a break from driving so I took the wheel for a while today.  We left Deadwood, SD around 9:30 am and got to Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota around 1 pm.  The open roads and 75 MPH speed limit make for a fun drive.  I then slowed down to about 20 MPH in the park.  The park had some more fantastic views and crazy wild life.  Wild horses and more bison were on the road, including right next to a visitor center where you had to walk close by a bison to get to the restrooms. 




After a couple hours we got back on the highway and I drove into Montana so out of the two of us, one can say they drove in ND and one can't.  I handed over driving duties soon after but I hope Ryan enjoyed being a passenger in a National Park as much as I did.
We have also seen a lot of highway animal casualties during this road trip but today marks the first time either of us has seen a huge porcupine on the side of the road, We didn't know they ran wild out here.
It was a long day in the car but this sunset welcomed us to Big Sky Country.

Bears, Lizards and Sorta Eli Young Band

Today was our last full day in Deadwood. We've already extended our stay once and we kind of want to stay more, but unfortunately there's a lot of driving coming up so it's best we move on.

With our extra day, we decided to hit some of the touristy places around Rapid (that's what the locals call Rapid City, apparently, based on the one local we talked to who said the name of the city). First up was Bear Country USA. We left our passports at home but luckily they still let us in. It was kind of pricey for a 2 mile drive-through wildlife park but it was neat to be close to animals like arctic wolves, elk and bears. It's rut time for the elk so they handed us a flyer telling us that they sometime charge cars; thankfully our Kia Sportage wasn't sexy enough for the male elk to bother chasing. Recently seeing bison and bighorn sheep in the wild did make the park lose some of its luster but it was still fun. At the end, they had a pen full of bear cubs that you could walk around and that was pretty good since they were active. The enormous gift shop did put me off a little but I guess you only make money 4 months of the year so you gotta do it.




Next we went a few miles up the road to Reptile Gardens. Jess was quite intrigued since there are signs for this everywhere around Rapid City and when I looked at TripAdvisor, it got decent reviews. I will say that it did have a large array of reptiles but it was a bit smaller than we had hoped. It wasn't a disappointment but I'm sure seeing so many animals lately made it seem less special.




After lunch at a local place called TGI Fridays, we headed up to the mining town of Lead. It was an active gold mine from 1876-2002 and was owned by George Hearst at one point. Now that they left it, they do tours of the upper areas of the mine and the town that grew from it (the actual mine, 8000 ft. down, is now used for scientific purposes). Unfortunately the last tour just left when we got there so we didn't get to see much. After Labor Day, a lot of places do limited hours and they don't really tell you what those hours are. Even in Deadwood, yesterday seemed like the last big day since the town was half deserted today.

Our day ended with doing laundry, booking hotels for tomorrow (we decided to stay 3 nights in Billing, MT) and a little gambling. The Eli Young Band were playing at our hotel tonight and while we decided not to go since we just wanted to relax before getting up early tomorrow, we could open our hotel window and still hear the songs somewhat clearly.

Tomorrow we head to North Dakota and Theodore Roosevelt National Park and then ending the day in Montana. As the Deadwoodians say (quoting Wild Bill Hickok), "it's a good day when you don't leave Deadwood in a casket." Note: no one says this.

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Two Tours

A day without getting in the car was what we needed.  We walked all over Deadwood, SD and it was everything I wanted it to be.
You might not know this about me but I LOVE tours.  Any tour really, but haunted tours are my absolute favorite.
The first tour was the Boothill Tour.  We got on an old school bus painted green with the windows removed  and got to see and hear about all the sights of historic Deadwood.  There were stories about all the buildings and some of the characters that built this town like Wild Bill, Sheriff Bullock and Calamity Jane.  The highlight of this tour was Mt. Moriah Cemetery where we got to see where Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok are buried.
It is a funny story because Calamity Jane wanted to be buried next to her "friend" Wild Bill but it is rumored he didn't like her and his friends buried her next to him as a joke.
From the hill in the cemetery we could see most of Deadwood and it was pretty and quaint.
On our way back through town we heard about some of the ghosts and haunting and it only made me more excited for our tour that night.
We also went to the Adams Museum. It was information overload but was interesting learning about all the fires and floods and crazy people in the place.
5:30 finally arrives and we are at the Bullock Hotel for our Ghost tour.  We learned all about Sheriff Bullock and the building including the fires and how it was used for patients during the small pox epidemic.  I will say I believe in ghosts and all that stuff so maybe I am just seeing what I want to see but I got two interesting pictures. One I showed our tour guide and she requested a copy saying it was a great example of orbs.  The other picture is a mirror where I think I see a faint image of a man's torso in a suit jacket.  Say what you want - I have heard it all from my skeptical husband.

On our walk back to the hotel we stopped in the Saloon #10 where we watched a reenactment of the murder of Wild Bill Hickok and it was fun to see the guys all dressed up and tell the story.
Then we had a quick dinner and I am ready for sleep.

Friday, September 19, 2014

Have you herd?

I was awake at 6 AM this morning because I was too excited to sleep any longer.  Today I got to see Mount Rushmore.  We drove up to it and thought it was cool but it wasn't until we got into the park that we realized how awe inspiring it is.
I loved every minute and every view you get of this massive monument from the Presidential Trail.


We even got a friendly stranger to get a picture of the 2 of us that isn't a cell phone selfie.


Next up was Mammoth Site in Hot Springs, SD.  I knew nothing about this going in except Ryan said it might be for kids.  It turned out to be a crazy story in a little town and it's still turning up new discoveries.  What I learned (the short version):  long time ago...big sink hole...huge mammoths fall in hole...hole fills in...in 1974 a subdivision is planned...bulldozer finds big bones...scientists get involved...40 years later bones of 61 mammoths have been found and they are STILL digging. The bones in the pictures are the actual bones (they leave most of them in place). 





On to Custer State Park...this was another picturesque drive with up close animal encounters.  I mean really up close...the Bison blocked the road and even rubbed their heads on car bumpers.  Wild burros stopped cars and begged for food very aggressively and more prairie dogs were everywhere.





What a great day!  I went into this trip with no expectations of what we would see and everyday I am blown away.  Sometimes you don't see another person or car for a half hour and it is so quiet you can almost picture what it must have been like in those pioneer days.  Totally loving this trip!

America's Hidden Gem

In 5th grade, everyone in my class had to do a big report on a state that was chosen for you at random. I got South Dakota, which sucked because I knew nothing about it and thus had to actually do some research to fill out my report (screw you, whoever got New York). It turns out South Dakota was mildly interesting; however, except for Mount Rushmore being there, I quickly forgot anything I learned about South Dakota. Like most Americans, I went into adulthood thinking nothing of this part of the Midwest/West and not really caring to go there if weren't for a desire to see all 50 states. After my brother and a friend made this trip a few years ago and listening to them rave about it, I knew that it was a hidden gem that shouldn't be overlooked.

After starting our trip in Nebraska (which exceeded expectations), we got into South Dakota yesterday. Our first destination set for today was the Badlands National Park. You can see the pictures from the earlier post and while I had seen some photos before so I knew what to expect, it still blew me away. The terrain is just awesome and almost doesn't seem real even as you're standing there. It's so vast and varied - I really recommend everyone come and see it. Jess didn't have any expectations going in so I think it was even more incredible for her. The way we entered the park meant we saw the most spectacular view first and it just got us looking forward to the rest of the day even more.

After that, we backtracked a small ways and went off the paved road. This gravel road is where the wildlife is; we were lucky it was dry since this road gets closed when the conditions are bad. This too was fantastic - the scenic viewpoints were great and we saw a ton of animals up close (like two feet from our car). The animal highlights included bighorn sheep, pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs and bison. The prairie dogs were great since there were so many of them and you could get close...at least they were great until later we saw a sign that said that have the plague (really). The bison were hard to find today but thankfully Jess has a buffalo sixth sense and she found a bunch (including getting pictures of one while pooping (the bison, not Jess)). Who knew she was a northern plains girl? The gravel road got very hilly and windy at the end and every car I passed was sliding around the turns. I didn't feel like I had any control issues so I was impressed my driving...until later in the day when I realized our Kia Sportage was AWD so it was probably the car and not my driving that got us through with no problems, which frankly made a lot more sense.

After the Badlands we went to the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. We got lost going to it originally - the GPS took us a silo site (which did have a couple signs, but was down a dirt road on what looked to be someone's farm) but no one was there and it seemed like the fence around this thing was locked. We backed up and headed back 10 miles to a different sign we saw only to realize we drove past the headquarters site as we left the Badlands. I didn't really know what I was looking for and this was just a couple trailers that had a few signs with info and a movie. Luckily tour passes for the launch control center were available so we quickly left to a third site that actually contained a launch capsule.

Some background: in the early 90's, there were over 1000 Minuteman ICBMs in remote parts of the interior US. They were armed and ready to fire at the Soviet Union (about 5000 miles away, over the North Pole) if a nuclear war broke out. By being in the middle of the US, if the Soviets launched a missile at the US, there would be enough time to launch a retaliatory strike before we were all obliterated. Anyway, when the Soviet Union fell, there was a treaty to reduce the number of nuclear weapons so a bunch of missiles were removed. The treaty allowed for a couple sites to remain as museums and we were at the ones that were designated as such.

The launch center and the silos were mostly off highways (within like a mile) and looked kind of like small ranch houses or fenced off concrete areas. They weren't really trying to hide them - everyone knew what was there, including the Soviets, but that was kind of the point. We got lucky in that our tour guide was retired Air Force and spent 4 years working in one of those control centers and then 5 years working on the planes that fly around, ready if a war broke out. He really knew the history since he worked it for nearly a decade and I think that made for a better tour.

The facility had a few rooms, like a big apartment, on the ground level floor. We had to take an elevator down 30 feet where the command capsule was located. It was relatively bomb proof with the amount of concrete protecting it; the capsule itself (where the missiles could be launched from) was protected by 3 foot thick door and it has shock absorbers to withstand a near impact. Within the capsule, two people would stay for long shifts, ready if an order came in from the President to launch. The guide went over the sequence of events, all of the redundancies for communication and control of the local missile network and what would happen in various scenarios. It was more fascinating than I thought it'd be and it hammered home the point that with so many redundant parts, destroying the whole network would be virtually impossible. If a Soviet missile was launched at us, planes would immediately go in the air (with the President and key personnel) and everything could be controlled from there. In the end, America would probably be ruined but the key point was that the Soviet Union would suffer the same fate so no one would really win.  I guess the mutually assured destruction worked after all since we're all still here. After the tour, we realized that the first site we visited - the one we thought was nothing - was an actual silo that you could walk up to and had a replica missile in it that you could see through a glass cover.

Finally, we went to Wall Drug on our way to our hotel in Deadwood. Wall Drug was ok - kind of stupid but it's one of those tourist traps you can't avoid. We finally got into Deadwood around sunset and while Jess was probably a little disappointed no one greeted us with singing and dancing, it does seem like an awesome and fun little town. It's got tons of casinos and in just under an hour or playing slots, Jess is already up over $100 so we can't complain.

Tomorrow is Mount Rushmore and probably a couple more sights depending on how much time we have. Hopefully the rest of the trip is as good as the first two days and as the locals say, may you avoid the buffalo chips. Note: No one says this.

Here's some pictures from the Missile tour and Wall Drug:

Some history at the headquarters 

Outside the launch control facility

Floor mat

Living and dining area

Capsule door with some custom artwork

1960's era computers

Red box contains the launch keys and code book to confirm the President's orders. 
Note: There are two locks because it took the two people 
on duty to launch a missile - no one person could ever do it alone.

Main control console

Outside Wall Drug

Examples of crap on the walls